Iain Scott

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Information about the life and times of Iain Scott

Guitars

It’s true you can just use one guitar for everything if it is a versatile model and professionally set up. I did do this for years, my first good guitar was a Gibson Les Paul Deluxe (10 yrs) then I changed to Fender Stratocaster when I was at GIT in L.A. (10 yrs). You will soon be “at one” with your instrument and learn how that guitar sounds through different amplifiers and in different situations etc.

As you play more and gain experience though you will appreciate how a couple of different guitars can give you different tones for recording, keep you approach fresh and also ‘reset’ your ears. Every three months or so I tend to play a different guitar for a while and it changes my playing a bit.

It is also handy for keeping your hands in condition; not only the different feel of a new guitar neck, but if you want you can strengthen your hands by stringing a guitar with a higher string gauge and doing some regular practicing.

I have been working towards getting a basic set of good guitars for a while, that all compliment each other for my music projects. A lot of guitars have come and gone for various reasons but this is where I am at now.I choose which one to use either by the style of music, or just by the way it suits the actual track I am working on.

Most of my guitars have been set up and modified by the fantastic guitar technician Charlie Chandler of C.C.G.X. (Charlie Chandler’s Guitar Experience) who sets them up using the PLEK computer controlled machine to a very high standard and some of them have the Buzz Feiton tuning system as well.

1. Fender Stratocaster Black ‘1954’ Jap Vintage Reissue

Probably the most versatile guitar on the planet, you can do anything with a Strat. This one has ‘alnico’ single coil pickups that are very bright, but also have a good bass extension, so it’s a pretty versatile axe.

The only style not covered well would be jazz but when you know how to do it you can still get a convincing jazz sound by using the front pick-up and the tone control at somewhere around ‘3’. I have rewired it so it has a single volume and tone for any pickup setting. Modifications – just a set-up.

2. Fender Thinline Telecaster ‘1972’ Jap Vintage Reissue.

This again is an extremely versatile guitar that combines well with the Strat. With the pair you have most bases covered. It’s fitted with Humbucking pick-ups that are brighter than Gibson humbuckers and fit more into the “Fender” soundscape. I had Charlie Chandler fit a Fender single coil strat pick-up in the centre position and rewire the guitar so I can coil-tap the humbuckers by pulling out the Tone control. This makes the guitar into a three single-coil guitar (like a Strat).

It has a ‘very’ lightweight body due to the f-holes that make it easy to play all day, which is why I use it so much at school, also it’s as close as I can get to playing a Gibson 335 without actually using one.

Modifications – ‘Plek’ setup, Buzz Feiton tuning, stainless steel frets, rewired.

3. Gibson ES335 Dot Reissue Red.

This is a great guitar that I often use for blues and fusion. The LA session players used this type of guitar all through the 70’s and 80’s as it can sound good in any style from jazz to country. It is a larger bodied guitar and quite a bit heavier than my Fender Thinline, so for this reason I wouldn’t want to play it all day, but it plays fantastically and always sounds big and fat when I record it.

Mods – ‘Plek’ Setup, fret dress, rewired.

4 Gibson “Howard Roberts” Fusion.

This is really a jazz guitar, but it has several special features that make it also work well in more contemporary blues and fusion styles. It feels like a slightly larger bodied ‘semi-acoustic’ Les Paul that is equipped with a larger, fat D shaped, 50’s style Les Paul neck.

It’s great to play sitting down as the neck sits into the body by about two frets (from where it would be on the 335) and this makes the neck feel closer and very ‘available’. (Similar to the “Musicman Axis Sport/Eddie Van Halen” designs, although they use a smaller/faster neck profile).

This model has a cleaner and brighter sound than the Gibson 335 probably because the body is made from ‘chromite’ (the other name for balsa wood?) so it is good for jazz, soul or Contemporary R’n’B gigs as well.

Mods – ‘Plek’ Setup, Jason Lollar pickups, new pots and rewired.

5. Taylor 714CE Acoustic Steel String.
I have been looking for a decent acoustic guitar all my life and finally I have found one that I can actually get around just as comfortably as if I was playing a Strat.

It is a bright sounding guitar that has a well-defined midrange and a fair bit of bass, but it isn’t too crunchy. You can play light fingerstyle or medium strumming using a thin pick and the guitar does all the work for you. The actual guitar is physically very light and comfortable to play as well. Thanks Taylor.

Mods – none yet, but I might get it Buzz Feiton-ed.

6. Godin ACS - Multiac Classical Guitar.
This guitar does two very valuable things for me, not only is it an easy-to-play classical guitar, but it also has a Roland Synth-Driver installed.

On the Classical side, it has a slightly smaller neck than a regular classical guitar combined with a great sounding pick-up/preamplifier that I can plug in and record direct with out piezo-quack. It is much quieter acoustically than a real classical guitar, so that makes late night practicing easy as well. I really should try to do more of it.

The Godin also features a Roland Midi Synth Driver internally so I can plug the midi output into my Mac midi interface when I want to record into Cubase etc. I often use it for recording a bass line, any rhythm guitar/keyboard/string parts and for ‘synth’ solos, that I double with a guitar amp output. Mods – none yet.

Pedalboard

It seems that pedals will always be with us, just a basic set of four or five pedals and a decent amp and you can get a lot of sounds and even better, sound different to every other guitar player.
This is the pedalboard I use most of the time. It’s in an old DOD pedal-case that I have chopped up to fit the different pedals I like to use. I run the whole board from a regulated power supply at 12 volts, this makes the pedals sound slightly cleaner. Right now it looks like this.

Here is a description of each pedal. This is the order of the pedals both physically and electrically.

MXR Filter, CryBaby and MXR Dyna Comp.

1. MXR Dyna-Comp.
I have a couple of compressor pedals (Boss CS3, Marshall ED1) but this is still my favourite. I only use it at about 25% squeeze but it is on all the time. I turn the output up so it is driving my other pedals (and my amp) slightly hotter than when turned off.

2. Cry Baby Wah-Wah.
This is the standard Wah-Wah. It is a bit crunchy but I can adjust the amount of sound going through it so it won’t distort unless I want it to. The compressor helps me adjust this level.

3. MXR Envelope Filter.
This is an auto-wah filter pedal that is useful for funk rhythm guitar. Again I can set the filter very accurately because I use the Dyna-Comp in front of it.

Stereo Phasor, Chorus and Tube Screamer

4. Ibanez “Reissue” Tube Screamer.
This is a fantastic overdrive pedal, everybody uses one and there is a good reason why, it has a great sound that suits blues and fusion tones, not too overdriven and if you turn down your guitar it will clean up really nicely. Sometimes I use a Boss OD2 (Yellow one) or SD2 (Orange One) as well.

5. Boss CE2 Chorus.
This is the typical 80’s chorus sound that everybody likes.

6. DOD Stereo Phaser.
This is the last pedal before my sound leaves the pedal board. When it is turned off it still acts as a stereo splitter so I can run into two small combos and get a big sound all the time. This is actually a Bass effects pedal, but I like it cos it has a better low-end response and doesn’t seem to distort as easily as other pedals I have tried.
The phase sounds really 70’s with rich strong regeneration, and a nice even sweep (especially in stereo) from very slow up to a fast warble. It reminds me of an old Mutron Bi-Phase pedal, not as warm but much smaller and it fits on my board.

That is basically what I use and even though I keep trying different pedals out for a while, I still keep coming back to this basic setup.

I am thinking about building another pedal board so I don’t have to keep messing this one about when I try out different effects pedals. When I have something sorted out I will put it up.

Amplifiers

OK, I admit it; I love Fender valve combo amplifiers. I choose the right volume for the gig or setting. This means that I use the same two or three amps most of the time depending on the type of work.

1. High Volume on Stage.
If I need to play clean and loud on stage it’s got to be a “Fender Twin Reverb”. Because it has 2X12 inch speakers and a 100-watt amp, the Twin is loud, clean and thin sounding so it suits funk, RnB or country tones. If I need it fatter I just add a Tube Screamer. This one is really beat up but it has been serviced and it sounds good.

Fender Twin - a bit beat up but still sounds great.

2. Moderate Volume on Stage.
The Fender Concert II on the other hand is only 60 Watts but has an Electro Voice 1X12 fitted so it is quite like an old ‘Boogie’ in tone, loud and fat and sounds good at any volume. (It’s very heavy though). I had this one serviced in LA by Paul Riviera himself just before I flew back to UK.

3. Low Volume in the Studio.
My favourite amp for low volume work has got to be a “Fender Princeton Reverb”. It’s only an 18-watt amplifier but the ratio between the cabinet size and the 10” ceramic speaker produces a bright sound with a really smooth bass response that is great for every thing I do. The reverb is sweet and the vibrato is really retro. This is the amp I use all the time for recording.

Fender Princeton - a great little amp.

That’s all for this section although I would love to add a Vox AC30CCX, a Marshall 18 watt combo or an Ampeg Reverb Rocket to this page.

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